Building a Simple Battlefield

2003-6-5

In this tutorial I will show you how to make a simple gaming board covered in grass matting. To illustrate the process I will be using a small sheet of MDF* - but you could use a range of sheet materials of any dimensions you wish. All told, the total cost of creating this board was in the region of £10 - £12.

NB: The images which accompany this tutorial can be viewed by clicking the links at the end of each stage of the text. This will launch a pop-up image browser - which you can use to view any stage of the process at any time.


Tools and Materials
::Board cut to size (8 to 12mm deep)
::Wallpaper Paste
::Large Pasting Brush
::Roll of Grass Mat
::Tape (Electrical or Masking)


The Board
Wagaming tables and battlefields come in all shapes and sizes. In this particular instance, my board will be used for games of De Bellis Antiquitatis (DBA). In accordance with the game rules, I have prepared a board which measures 12 inches square - the prescribed dimensions for battles using 15mm figures. View Stage 1


Sanding the Board
Before going any further, you must take appropriate steps to prepare the surface of the wood. In order to ensure a strong bond between the board and grass mat, the surface must be scoured with a piece of coarse sandpaper. It's also worth lightly rounding-off any sharp edges and corners, which may tear the matting. After sanding, wipe the board with a damp cloth and leave to dry. View Stage 2


Grass Mat
Grass Matting is available from all good model shops. It is sold in long rolls - typically up to a meter wide and sometimes 3 meters in length. The grass is simulated by millions of tiny nylon strands bonded to a paper backing sheet. The resulting material is not unlike the flock-style furry wallpaper which was hung on so many restaurant walls in the 70's and 80's. View Stage 3


Cutting the Grass
Before attempting to lay your mat, you must first cut it to size. This is important. The grass mat is not a sheet and you are not making a bed! I say this because some people will be tempted leave a wide flap of excess mat around the edge of the board which - they assume - they will be able to tuck neatly around the sides. Don't do it! This practice will only end in disaster. As soon as the mat becomes soggy with wallpaper paste, it will try to contract, expand and generally stretch out of all shape. Any excess material dangling over the sides will only serve to add weight to these contortions. Take my advice; don't leave any more than a centimetre of extra matting around the edge - or you could be sorry. View Stage 4


Paste and brush
The best way to secure the mat to your board is with wallpaper paste. You can buy a sachet in all good DIY stores. Some claim to be stronger than others, but this is hardly rocket science so almost any brand will do. Prepare the mixture in a suitable bowl (not your wife's/girlfriend's/mother's best salad bowl) as per the instructions. You should aim to for a fairly heavy almost sludge-like consistency. View Stage 5


Get Pasting
Now it's time to get pasting. Apply a liberal coat of the paste all over the top surface of your board. If the mixture soaks into the wood, then it is too thin. Add more paste to the mix and apply again. The paste must sit on the surface of the board or it will not bond the mat. View Stage 6


Lay the Mat
Depending on the size of your board, you may find this task easier with two people. Unroll the mat and lower it gently on to the paste. Then, begin pressing it down with the palm of your hand. Work from the centre and stroke outwards to the edges. This will take several minutes but is the only way to ensure a truly uniform surface free of air bubbles. If you do find any ridges that have become trapped, simply lift and peel back the matting, smooth out the ripples and then lay it back down on to the board. The wallpaper paste will take some time to dry so you can keep doing this until you're happy with the results. Once you have finished, try to leave the board horizontal, in situ, so that it can dry completely. This may take 24 hours. Alternatively, if it's a nice day, consider putting the board outside on the garden table for a few hours. View Stage 7


Taping the Edges
When the mat is completely dry, it's time for the finishing touches. The wallpaper paste is tough, but can be brittle when subjected to wear and tear. The edges of the mat - in particular - will tear and or come away from the board if snagged on a door frame, etc. For this reason it's worth investing a simple roll of tape and binding the edge of the board. Sadly this can be the most difficult and infuriating episode in the entire process - especially if you're trying to do it on your own! Take my advice and borrow a few fingers from a colleague or you'll be chasing your tail for hours! View Stage 8


Job Done
If you can resist the temptation of using it as an occasional coffee table, your board should last you for ages. The grass is not only an ideal playing surface, but also an excellent stage and backdrop for photographs, etc. Have fun! View Stage 9


*MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) and all other fibreboards containformaldehyde resins which are used to bond together the constituent parts. Even at a low level, exposure to formaldehyde though inhalation can cause irritation to the eyes, nose, throat and mucous membrane. Accordingly, if you are cutting or sanding your board, please take all necessary precautions to protect yourself from inhaling the resulting dust particles.